We goto sleep at 8:30pm I wake up with noise of people moving around thinking it must be the guys from Colorado who were supposed to leave at 4:00 am. I look at the watch and its 5:00, I slept through the commotion which is a sign of getting acclimatized.
We are ready to go by 6:00, I get some help getting my crampons on. No headlights required, it looks like a nice day. Its beautiful and as we start walking the clouds lift up and all the peaks appear. Today is the first time that I have seen any of them. We take some pictures and keep walking. Segundo and I take the lead and are soon ahead of the rest; it almost feels like we have the mountain to ourselves.
The solitude, the views, the complete break from civilization (phone, email, cars, pollution). Yes, this is why I do it.
We reach higher and there is fresh snow which has covered the trail. As things warm up every step has to be strong, we have to make sure that a strong foot hold is established before taking the next step. It was hard-work, but I really, really enjoyed it.
We make it to the summit in about four hours; the last part called 'Paseo de la Muerte' lived up to its name. The track was steep, there were lots of rocks, so we abandoned the ice axe and scrambled our way to the top. We sat for a few minutes and relaxed, by now a lot of people were getting close so we make our way down the rocky part and then wait for them to pass.
Now its all down hill, its supposedly a shorter route but it seemed to take a long time. The snow started getting slushy and the going was slow, but like all things it was over, at 11:20 am or 7 hrs after we started we were back in the parking lot.
Rest, talk to the wife and thats the end of another glorious day.
Friday, December 31, 2010
Thursday, December 30, 2010
Refugio Illinizas
There is snow on Illiniza Norte which means we have to carry technical equipment and then sleeping bags for the Refugio. So, I pack all morning and we leave the hotel around 10:30, another hour driving and we are at the parking lot.
About an hour from the parking lot we meet the russian couple, they had left the hacienda at least an hour before us. All of a sudden, I have someone to measure myself against, its almost if the feeling that I am better then someone kicks of the competitive instinct. I got into a slow rhythm and made it to the Refugio in 3 hrs.
I wondered why am I doing this? I will be staying in a small hut with bunk beds, no hot water, eating crappy food. But then I am not sure if there is anything I'd rather be doing.
There are a couple of guys from Colorado who finished Illiniza Norte already and will start Illiniza Sur which is one of the harder climbs. We chat a little bit, eat and then go to bed.
About an hour from the parking lot we meet the russian couple, they had left the hacienda at least an hour before us. All of a sudden, I have someone to measure myself against, its almost if the feeling that I am better then someone kicks of the competitive instinct. I got into a slow rhythm and made it to the Refugio in 3 hrs.
I wondered why am I doing this? I will be staying in a small hut with bunk beds, no hot water, eating crappy food. But then I am not sure if there is anything I'd rather be doing.
There are a couple of guys from Colorado who finished Illiniza Norte already and will start Illiniza Sur which is one of the harder climbs. We chat a little bit, eat and then go to bed.
Wednesday, December 29, 2010
El Corazon 15,702ft
This is where it all begins.
My guide Segundo is right on time at 7:30 and says "hi, lets go", a man of not too many words. We drive to a hacienda to drop my bags that are not needed for the hike. We drive for another hour and park near the base of El Corazon. Then its an uphill hike, walking is slow and breathing is hard due the altitude and I feel out of breath all the time.
Visibility is low because of the clouds, then it starts drizzling and the drizzle turns to snow. The gentle hike turns to a scramble; the ground is wet which makes it tricky but slowly we make it to the top. I know that it was the summit because my guide told me so, I couldn't see a thing beyond five feet.
The entire hike took five hours; we now go to La Estacion (appropriately named for being next to a train station). We are joined by Edgar (my guide Segundo's brother), Kathy another guide and a Russian couple. We have dinner and then I pass out.
My guide Segundo is right on time at 7:30 and says "hi, lets go", a man of not too many words. We drive to a hacienda to drop my bags that are not needed for the hike. We drive for another hour and park near the base of El Corazon. Then its an uphill hike, walking is slow and breathing is hard due the altitude and I feel out of breath all the time.
Visibility is low because of the clouds, then it starts drizzling and the drizzle turns to snow. The gentle hike turns to a scramble; the ground is wet which makes it tricky but slowly we make it to the top. I know that it was the summit because my guide told me so, I couldn't see a thing beyond five feet.
The entire hike took five hours; we now go to La Estacion (appropriately named for being next to a train station). We are joined by Edgar (my guide Segundo's brother), Kathy another guide and a Russian couple. We have dinner and then I pass out.
Tuesday, December 28, 2010
A slow day
Antonio my driver wanted to leave early and I didn't know what I could do with the little time in the morning, so I packed early and we left. This time instead of going back the route we came, we drove southward and took a big loop to come back to the Cotopaxi area.
It was a beautiful drive and we finally reach the Hacienda. Hacienda La Cienega is one of the oldest houses in Ecuador, built in 1695 the hacienda has survived 5 eruptions from Cotopaxi, supposedly because its built on swamp land.
I took the day to write my blog, tag my pictures and went through my luggage to pack gear for the climbs. I ate a lot today, I hope I burn some calories tomorrow.
It was a beautiful drive and we finally reach the Hacienda. Hacienda La Cienega is one of the oldest houses in Ecuador, built in 1695 the hacienda has survived 5 eruptions from Cotopaxi, supposedly because its built on swamp land.
I took the day to write my blog, tag my pictures and went through my luggage to pack gear for the climbs. I ate a lot today, I hope I burn some calories tomorrow.
Monday, December 27, 2010
A wet day in Chugchillan
The plan for today was to walk to cheese factory, visit a water fall and then take a loop back to the inn.
The day started of nice, warm and sunny. The walk was so nice that I missed my turn and went quite far (all the timing cursing myself for being so slow). A truck stopped the driver did tell me that I had past my turn but he was going in the opposite direction, so he handed me over to the police who were just passing by. The police were very nice an helpful, they didn't understand why I wanted to walk so they drove me all the way to Chino Alto (closest village to the cheese factory) and then asked a local to drive me to the Cheese factory on his bike. It took me a while to convince them that I really wanted to walk, so shaking their heads they decided to let me go.
I had been driven the harder part of the trip and it almost felt like cheating. By now the clouds had moved in, it was chilly and there was a slight drizzle. I walked to the cheese factory (there was't anyone there) and the to the village after that by now the visibility was less then 15 ft, so I decided to head back via the cloud forest (which is in rapid decline due to illegal logging).
Yoga at 5, massage at 6, dinner at 7pm followed by bed and book reading. I finished Into Thin Air around 1:00am. Life is good.
The day started of nice, warm and sunny. The walk was so nice that I missed my turn and went quite far (all the timing cursing myself for being so slow). A truck stopped the driver did tell me that I had past my turn but he was going in the opposite direction, so he handed me over to the police who were just passing by. The police were very nice an helpful, they didn't understand why I wanted to walk so they drove me all the way to Chino Alto (closest village to the cheese factory) and then asked a local to drive me to the Cheese factory on his bike. It took me a while to convince them that I really wanted to walk, so shaking their heads they decided to let me go.
I had been driven the harder part of the trip and it almost felt like cheating. By now the clouds had moved in, it was chilly and there was a slight drizzle. I walked to the cheese factory (there was't anyone there) and the to the village after that by now the visibility was less then 15 ft, so I decided to head back via the cloud forest (which is in rapid decline due to illegal logging).
Yoga at 5, massage at 6, dinner at 7pm followed by bed and book reading. I finished Into Thin Air around 1:00am. Life is good.
Sunday, December 26, 2010
Quilatoa Lake
The night was colder then expected, I didn't keep my stove burning for very long and had to take an extra blanket. I did sleep well although the cough is still lingering.
The plan was to hike up the Quilatoa crater, spend sometime at the lake and then return. The hike involves going down a canyon, up the other side of the canyon to Guyamba and then another trail to the top. Its mostly an up hill hike and the super fit club did a round trip yesterday in 7 hours.
The trail happened to be a very wide unpaved road, I promptly got off the trail, and had to find my way back to the other side. It was very nice sunny day, I reached Guyamba in about 2 hours. I asked around as pointed towards a trail that would take me to Quilatoa in about 1 hour. I later realized that this was probably the most direct/steepest route to the top, it was slow going and it took me almost 2 hours to reach the top. By now the clouds had moved in, and visibility was very low. All of a sudden a turn and then there it was, Quilatoa, absolutely magnificent. It was one of the most rewarding hikes of my life. I guess I can count this as a summit 10,440ft.
I took some pictures and slowly made my way to the other side of the rim. It was getting late and I was tired so I decided to take a truck back to the inn.
The crowd is interesting as usual; a Swiss guy who is riding his bike from Alaska to Chile, a bunch of climatologists who spent sometime at Chimborazo (highest peak in Ecuador) and are not happy with what they saw, a family with there son who is in the peace corp. I am too tired for all this, so I am in bed as soon as dinner is over.
The plan was to hike up the Quilatoa crater, spend sometime at the lake and then return. The hike involves going down a canyon, up the other side of the canyon to Guyamba and then another trail to the top. Its mostly an up hill hike and the super fit club did a round trip yesterday in 7 hours.
The trail happened to be a very wide unpaved road, I promptly got off the trail, and had to find my way back to the other side. It was very nice sunny day, I reached Guyamba in about 2 hours. I asked around as pointed towards a trail that would take me to Quilatoa in about 1 hour. I later realized that this was probably the most direct/steepest route to the top, it was slow going and it took me almost 2 hours to reach the top. By now the clouds had moved in, and visibility was very low. All of a sudden a turn and then there it was, Quilatoa, absolutely magnificent. It was one of the most rewarding hikes of my life. I guess I can count this as a summit 10,440ft.
I took some pictures and slowly made my way to the other side of the rim. It was getting late and I was tired so I decided to take a truck back to the inn.
The crowd is interesting as usual; a Swiss guy who is riding his bike from Alaska to Chile, a bunch of climatologists who spent sometime at Chimborazo (highest peak in Ecuador) and are not happy with what they saw, a family with there son who is in the peace corp. I am too tired for all this, so I am in bed as soon as dinner is over.
Saturday, December 25, 2010
Quito and Chugchilan
At 9,350 ft Quito is high for someone coming from sea level. Even though I had been up since 7 am, I didn't feel like sleeping. When finally I lied down around 1 am the lack of oxygen woke me up as soon as my breathing slowed down. This lasted till about 6 am and I finally decided to wake up.
The sauna was not working and the bikes in the gym were rusty, it was hard to push any ways so I stopped after about half an hour. It appears that my hotel is in the middle of nowhere; so I guess I won't be staying here again. All the shops are closed and it feels like everyone has decided to stay inside their homes.
My driver arrived promptly at 10 am; Antonio who looks like he is in his forties, is a grand father and has six children. He didn't like the fact that I was going to skip Quito till later, so we went to old town for a little tour. Basilica, churches, plaza central and parks, everything you'd expect from a spanish colonial town. Quito is very nice, the down town has been restored and I look forward to more exploration on my return visit.
As we drove to my next stop (Black Sheep Inn) the sun came out and finally I could see the beautiful, unbelievably green landscape. We were in the volcano alley but all the tops were covered with clouds. My driver tells me its been raining a lot more then usual.
We finally get to the lodge around 4 pm. Andrew and Michelle have done what a lot only dream off, 16 years ago they came to area and decided to stay. The lodge, cabins and their own house have been designed by Andrew. The inn has been made by locals using all local materials, everything is recycled, food is organic, there is solar power and they have composting toilets.
There are a lot of super athletic people here. A guy who has done iron man five times, his girl friend a marathon runner, another lady who runs marathons and has done an iron man, a couple that does half marathons; an indian couple on their honey moon (not the super fit types). Then there is me, my NorthFace duffle bag and climbing itinerary has convinced everyone that I am an Alpinist (offcourse without any accomplishments).
Had a great dinner, a little wine and finally I am relaxing. Even half way through my book.
The sauna was not working and the bikes in the gym were rusty, it was hard to push any ways so I stopped after about half an hour. It appears that my hotel is in the middle of nowhere; so I guess I won't be staying here again. All the shops are closed and it feels like everyone has decided to stay inside their homes.
My driver arrived promptly at 10 am; Antonio who looks like he is in his forties, is a grand father and has six children. He didn't like the fact that I was going to skip Quito till later, so we went to old town for a little tour. Basilica, churches, plaza central and parks, everything you'd expect from a spanish colonial town. Quito is very nice, the down town has been restored and I look forward to more exploration on my return visit.
As we drove to my next stop (Black Sheep Inn) the sun came out and finally I could see the beautiful, unbelievably green landscape. We were in the volcano alley but all the tops were covered with clouds. My driver tells me its been raining a lot more then usual.
We finally get to the lodge around 4 pm. Andrew and Michelle have done what a lot only dream off, 16 years ago they came to area and decided to stay. The lodge, cabins and their own house have been designed by Andrew. The inn has been made by locals using all local materials, everything is recycled, food is organic, there is solar power and they have composting toilets.
There are a lot of super athletic people here. A guy who has done iron man five times, his girl friend a marathon runner, another lady who runs marathons and has done an iron man, a couple that does half marathons; an indian couple on their honey moon (not the super fit types). Then there is me, my NorthFace duffle bag and climbing itinerary has convinced everyone that I am an Alpinist (offcourse without any accomplishments).
Had a great dinner, a little wine and finally I am relaxing. Even half way through my book.
Friday, December 24, 2010
Miami - On my way to Ecuador
Its a Great Day to be Alive!
Sometimes, every once in a while you have a great day. Its not because everything is going great or as planned; you just feel great and the rest of the stuff doesn't matter. Today was that day.
Spoke to my wife who is safely in Geneva with her daughter and new grand daughter. She looked happy as can be.
I had about five hours before my flight, so I decided to goto the pool. It was a clear but very windy day which kept most people out of the pool, so I got to enjoy it, had a great swim, relaxed, went to beach and walked for a while. Swam in the ocean for a little bit, it was cold/refreshing. I loved it. Another swim, little bit of Gym a VT and off to the airport.
The flight to Panama City and then Quito were on time and arrived early (christmas eve I think). I am almost done with my work, so hopefully I can stay away from the email for a while.
Sometimes, every once in a while you have a great day. Its not because everything is going great or as planned; you just feel great and the rest of the stuff doesn't matter. Today was that day.
Spoke to my wife who is safely in Geneva with her daughter and new grand daughter. She looked happy as can be.
I had about five hours before my flight, so I decided to goto the pool. It was a clear but very windy day which kept most people out of the pool, so I got to enjoy it, had a great swim, relaxed, went to beach and walked for a while. Swam in the ocean for a little bit, it was cold/refreshing. I loved it. Another swim, little bit of Gym a VT and off to the airport.
The flight to Panama City and then Quito were on time and arrived early (christmas eve I think). I am almost done with my work, so hopefully I can stay away from the email for a while.
Saturday, December 18, 2010
A New Adventure
Just realized that my last post was more then 2 years ago. I guess, sometimes you just don't have a lot to say.
Anyways, I am getting ready for a new adventure, this time mountaineering in Ecuador. It took me a while to figure out the terminology; you see mountaineering means climbing mountains, however, going to the top of a mountain may not include any 'climbing'. So, as long as you get to the summit you have climbed a mountain and you do whatever you have to get there (hike, tackle snow, ice, rocks etc). If you think this discussion is worthy of your time the Brits (who by the way don't have any mountains) have written a whole page on this topic, there is also a discussion topic on Yahoo.
For everyone else who doesn't care; here is the deal. I will be climbing four mountains in Ecuador, starting with El Corazón (15,702ft) the heart shaped mountain, then moving onto Illiniza Norte (17,218 ft), followed by the Cotopaxi which at 19,347 ft is the second highest mountain in Ecuador and finally Cayambe (18,996 ft). The trip starts on X-mas eve.
To prep for the trip, I started off with Touching the Void a wonderful book/documentary by Simon Yates about surviving a near fatal climb of Siula Grande (20,813 ft) in Peru; then No Way Down about the tragic accident on K2 (28,251 ft) that killed 11 climbers in 2008; On the Ridge Between Life and Death about the fanaticism of climbing.
Fortunately, I am not doing anything even remotely close to what these guy did ; I will never enter the death zone (above 24,000 ft), I am not out to carve out a new route; all the mountains are a day climb (you can be up and back to the refugio in less then 12 hours) so no chance of getting lost and my favorite part, no climbing. All, I need to worry about is altitude and be prepared to walk; should be fun!
Anyways, I am getting ready for a new adventure, this time mountaineering in Ecuador. It took me a while to figure out the terminology; you see mountaineering means climbing mountains, however, going to the top of a mountain may not include any 'climbing'. So, as long as you get to the summit you have climbed a mountain and you do whatever you have to get there (hike, tackle snow, ice, rocks etc). If you think this discussion is worthy of your time the Brits (who by the way don't have any mountains) have written a whole page on this topic, there is also a discussion topic on Yahoo.
For everyone else who doesn't care; here is the deal. I will be climbing four mountains in Ecuador, starting with El Corazón (15,702ft) the heart shaped mountain, then moving onto Illiniza Norte (17,218 ft), followed by the Cotopaxi which at 19,347 ft is the second highest mountain in Ecuador and finally Cayambe (18,996 ft). The trip starts on X-mas eve.
To prep for the trip, I started off with Touching the Void a wonderful book/documentary by Simon Yates about surviving a near fatal climb of Siula Grande (20,813 ft) in Peru; then No Way Down about the tragic accident on K2 (28,251 ft) that killed 11 climbers in 2008; On the Ridge Between Life and Death about the fanaticism of climbing.
Fortunately, I am not doing anything even remotely close to what these guy did ; I will never enter the death zone (above 24,000 ft), I am not out to carve out a new route; all the mountains are a day climb (you can be up and back to the refugio in less then 12 hours) so no chance of getting lost and my favorite part, no climbing. All, I need to worry about is altitude and be prepared to walk; should be fun!
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