Flight Skardu to Islamabad

We were very lucky to get a last minute ticket to the flight back to Islamabad. Views of Karakorum and the Himalayas were just amazing. The drive time of 16hours was reduced to a 25 min flight.

Saischo to Skardu

I slept without the tent cover almost like sleeping in the open. It was my best sleep of the trip, I slept at 9:30pm and woke up at 6:30 am (what a luxury). Everyone made a dash for Hushe, it was early in the day and it was an easy walk so we did the 11km in about 2 1/2 hours.

Hushe is a beautiful village, old stone and mud houses (all with satellite dishes though); small streets and kids running around, they all say Hi and then blush and run away.

We didn't stay very long, we had a ride so we were on our way to Skardu. We passed through absolutely beautiful villages with terraced fields. Its apricot season almost every roof top is covered with apricots. In some villages the wheat harvest has started and entire families are busy in the fields; harvesting and sifiting is all done by hand. Its like going back in time, the only visible sign of modern life is the satelite dish it seems like everyone has one.

We leave this world behind as we start travelling on paved roads, we pass a stone desert next to a river which seemed like the oddest combination. We had lunch in Khaplu at a Pakistani/Chinese fast food restaurant which only serves daal/vegies and meat. This is a common theme, long menus and no selection.

Getting close to Skardu we are stopped by an Ashura march. Ashura is commemorated by the Shitte's on the marterdom of Hussain (Muhammads grandson). The usual day is 10th of muharaam which in 2008 falls in Feburary. The Shitte fervor is so strong in this area that they decided to have a redo in summer so they can feel the pain that Hussain went through since his battle was fought in the summer of karbala (in Iraq).

So, we waited with patience for a few hours until finally our driver was able to convince the crowds that we were going to miss a flight if we stayed any longer.

Khuspang to Saischo 11169ft

The day started with a walk on Hushe Glacier (rocks as usual). Did I mention I hate walking on rocks. Thankfully, the rocks didn't last for very long and we spent most of the day walking on mountainous terrain going downhill with views of K7 and Masherbrum. It was a very pleasant day.

At Saischo we took a bath (our first in 7 days), wow what a blessing. There is a party of 12 returning from a failed G2 attempt, these guys made it all the way from base camp in one day (it took us 3 days to do the same). All of them are europeans and some of them are in their late 50s (I feel very inadequate). There is another group just 2 ukranian climbers who decided to keep on going. This has been a rough year for the climbers, none of the major peaks have been sumitted so they plan to return next year.

Usually the porters celebrate the end of the trek/expedition with singing and dancing. Saischo is a hub where all groups stop and there are enough people to start a party. Its Ashoora (a Shiite religious holiday) and most of the porters are observing, so no dancing or singing for us. What a bummer.

Tomorrow we goto Hushe and then onto Skardu; hopefully we will be able to get a flight on the 29th. It has been a rough ride, the Karakorums are not gentle, the environment is harsh and unfriendly; but if you can brave the terrain the spectacular views make it all worthwhile.

Gondogoro-la to Khuspang 15378ft

It was all down hill from here, the initial decent was steep and we used fixed rope for a while. After that it was once again the rocky terrain and we walked for what seemed like eternity. Finally we got to the campsite around 4:00pm it was a very long day.

Tomorrow we goto Saischo, I am really looking forward to bath its been about a week.

Gondogoro-la 18427ft

We made it. Started walking around 3:00am, Hamid had made a good recovery. The hike to the top of Gondogoro-la took about 3 1/2 hours; we had crampons and most of the path had fixed rope. The weather was crap and it started snowing when we got to the top, so we were denied the amazing views of K2 and the big mountains. Our guides told us that we did very well for Pakistanis; most reach the top crying in pain.

La tops at 18427ft, this is higher then any peak in the continental US; yet we did not summit. The Gondogoro glacier is higher, but not high enough to be documented.

Concordia - Muneer Camp 16,485ft

Now we begin our trek to Hushe; Baltoro Glacier dead-ends at Gondogoro Peak. Our goal is to cross Gondogoro-la (La means Pass in Balti the local language) failure means returning the same way we got here. Muneer Camp is the closest point to the crossing. The crossing was closed last year due to crevasses but a lot of people have crossed this year so we should be fine.

Today was a long day, we walked on glacier for quite a while until we reached the area called Baltoro highlands. We reached Ali camp (1st stage) around 2:00pm and then another walk on rocks to get to Muneer Camp. The plan is to sleep a little, then we wake up at mid-night to head for the pass

Despite the rest day at concordia, altitude does have an affect. Talking, laughing or any sudden movement is enough to get out of breath. Last night I woke up twice, gasping for air.

Hamid is quite ill, he has fever and an upset stomach and on top decided not to eat anything. So, now we are trying all remedies because no one wants to go back with him.

Goro1 to Concordia - 15,056ft

Didn't get much sleep last night, the combination of glacier for flooring and pain in my legs didn't help. The glacier soaks the mattress and cold seeps up your leg until you wake-up turn to the other leg and repeat the process. I did get up around 1 am to take a peak. It was the most incredible sight; half-moon, stars and the silhouette of mountains so clear it seemed unreal. I couldn't stay out for long, the nights are very cold.

The walk to Concordia was absolutely gorgeous; blue sky behind us and fog covering the mountains in the horizon. Sometimes you can catch a glimpse as the fog lifts and as we get closer. Altitude is a factor now, walking uphill is a struggle, so we walk slow and drink water. They say that drinking glacier water is the best way to prevent altitude sickness.

Concordia is the name given to the meeting point of Baltoro and Goodwin-Austin glaciers; also around this area are some of the highest peaks in the world. The base camps to K-2 and three other 8K peaks (Broad Peak, Gasherbrum I & II) are a short hike.

K2 is remote and not visible until you get close to Concordia; when the first survey of this area was conducted in 1856 it appeared that there was no local name for the mountain (probably because it appears shorter then surrounding mountains or maybe because no one bothered to come this far). K2 is considered by many to be the world's most difficult and dangerous to climb, hence the nick name 'Savage Mountain'.

All hiking and climbing groups use this as a stopping point. The mountains around us make there own weather, at times competing with each other; we had light snow for a while, it cleared up and then there was sun for a while. There have been no summits to any of the 8K peaks this year the weather has been variable and unpredictable. So, there are a few expeditions heading back with hopes of returning back next year.

Khuburse to Goro1 - 13,855ft

Paiyu Peak stands taller then all the other mountains, today when the weather cleared up we caught a glimpse of it for the first time. The peak wasn't clear long enough to take a picture.

There was a light drizzle in the morning but then it cleared up and we were on our way. It seems like I am out of luck with the rocks; the terrain was merciless for the most part but as we got close to the 'camp ground' the rocks were replaced by gavel which is much easier to walk on. Looks like we are finally getting to the nicer part of town. Glacial streams, white snow the mountains getting closer and closer.

After clouds all day, suddenly it cleared up and we could see the mountains the ones we had left behind and a distant view of concordia and the mountains. The big ones this time, the ones worthy of a name.

Paiyu to Khuburse - 12,600 ft

I hate walking on rocks, they are uncomfortable and they slip under my feet making it impossible to develop any kind of rhythm; but that's what we did all day. It took us about an hour to get to the start of Baltoro galcier. If glaciers conjure visions of vast crystalline blue snow fields then re-adjust; the snow where visible is ash Grey. Most of the glacier is covered with rocks, the terrain is rugged mountains as far as the eye could see. Beautiful, giant mountains that strangely seem ordinary since there are so many of them. Baltoro is going to be our home until we cross Gondogoro-la or in the worst case turn back.

We had cloud cover all day, the rain coming only once we had reached the camp with tents firmly in place. The day was tough, much more then I had anticipated. The highlight was Trango Tower famous with climbers.

Hamid has a fever, combination of exhaustion and sore throat. Hopefully, he will be better tomorrow as we have another tough day tomorrow.

Jhola to Paiyu - 11,142ft

Today was really nice, it was hot earlier in the day but we mostly walked next to the river for quite a while. After our brief lunch of roti with jam, we started walking again. All of a sudden the clouds came in and there was a light drizzle which made the trip really pleasant. Soon after we got to the campsite it started raining and we spent most of the evening inside just relaxing for the next day. This is still the land of un-named peaks, basically anything less the 7,000meters is not worth a mention.

Most groups spend a rest day at Paiyu to acclimatize; as a junction point its suppose to be a happening place. When there are enough tourists, porters play drums, sing and dance. But this has been a really bad year for tourism, there are only four groups of 2-3 members each and the campsite is mostly empty. A tour guide told us that before 9/11 the place used to be packed and the big operators used to have fixed tents. Those were the good old days.

Askole to Jhola - 10,377ft

So we leave the last traces of civilization and head towards Jhola our next stop. It was a long day but an easy walk.

Early in the day we reached an open field known to the locals as Tisar Shahrang or Tisar's Polo Ground. Legend says that King Tisar caught his rival Babel while he was escaping. Babel was caught when two mountains closed on Tisars orders catching Babels horses tail. Tisar then proceeded to play Polo with his rivals head.

We reached our final destination Jhola around 2:00pm. It was a very hot day and all of us have headaches from walking in the sun. Jhola has running water and toilets, so I took a bath (probably the last one for a while) and then sat in the only small piece of shade. Thanks god for small blessings.

Our porters were here 4 hours before us, we are either slow or incredibly out of shape.

Skardu to Askole - 8,976ft

We were suppose to leave at 6:00am, so I woke up early ready to leave in time. I guess I have lost my touch because the guide, our transport was no where to be found. They did arrive an hour later 'on-time'. We drove through beautiful terrain, majestic mountains and then, we stopped. A landslide had blocked the road, so we had to abandon our jeep walk to the other side and wait for another jeep. Our new transport couldn't take us very far since the bridge on route broke down as well. We now had to wait for about 3 hours before we got our next transport. Finally we arrived in Askole at 8:30pm; our 90 miles journey took 13hours.

I met a couple of Americans, one of them lives in NJ (what are the chances of that?). They love it and were quite excited by the whole ordeal; "its like you are transported back in time".

We got here much later then expected so tomorrow the weights for porters will be arranged; its going to be a long day tomorrow.

K2 Trek

Drive to Skardu

Our trip from Abbottabad to Skardu started on the 15th and ended around 2:00pm on the 16th. You discover the true meaning of a mountain range after driving through one for 16 hours. After driving through low hills for quite a while we finally started seeing some high mountains and then it was one after another for what seemed like forever. You see a mountain, drive around it seeing it from all possible angle and then all of a sudden you take a turn, the monotony is broken all of sudden its another mountain, a new landscape.

Mountains in Pakistan

Pakistan is host to both the Himalayas and the Karakorum. Naga Parbat is the highest peak in the Himalayan range, Karakaorum dominates the scene with 60 peaks above 7,000m (22,960ft).

The Himalayan range in Pakistan is full of green rolling hills, very benign and beautiful; the Karakorum on the other hand has a very harsh and unforgiving terrain.Karakorum means 'black gravel' in Turkic. The mountains and the surrounding area indeed rocky, inhospitable and menacing. Yet, every year people from all over the world come to Pakistan Northern areas to visit these giant mountains.

The highlight of the K2 trek is Concordia; the confluence of three glaciers, four 8K peaks and multiple large mountains. Our goal is not to reach K2 base camp but to cross the Gondogoro-la pass; the pass crosses over Baltoro glacier and is a short cut that takes you to Hushe instead of turning back. The pass was closed last year due to cravesses, this year is suppose to be easy. Lets see.

Dubai is a Crazy place

When you see it from the air it seems like a God forsaken place; just desert and not even the nice one with dunes, just plain dirt.

Yet these people have managed to create a place which is hard to describe. 24% of the world construction cranes are in Dubai it seems like the entire city is going through a major overhaul (which is actually true). The architecture is beautiful and very unusual, opulence seems a cheap word to describe the fantastical nature of these projects. If the palms was not enough they are now making Dubai World a man made archipelago of islands that look like (you're right) The World.

I spent my day doing the only thing you can do in 100 degree weather with 40% humidity. Shop. The shopping malls are over the top, I went to the city center which I thought was amazing until I went to Wafi. It seems like the place has been created for billionaires who are unable to find mega malls where they can spend $100K on a watch. The place can only be described as fantastical, it has an Egyptian pyramid theme with stained glass, wall carvings, Italian marble, out door restaurant (for the smokers) with blasting air conditioners; basically no expense has been spared to make sure you will not hold to your wallet. Literally All the mega, boutique and ultra exclusive brands are here (50% off).

I hate to say that I succumbed to the pressure, how long can you be in a candy store before you finally give up the temptation. In my case it was 3 hours and 25 mins.

So, here I am in a hotel with a roof top pool, which I cannot use because its just too hot. So, I'll finish my work email and then its off to The Land of the Pure (Pakistan).

Let the Safar-ing Begin

So I managed to get to Paris. The fact that I was able to fit 3 weather camping gear for 2, gifts for my entire family (including a down comforter) and clothes for a month in Europe in 2 suit cases is the achievement of packing technology. Vacuum bags, stuff bags, mesh bags you name it; my personal favorite is vacuuming followed by a combo computer/camera bag from Lowepro (a neat trick to avoid the 2 item carry-on limit).

Do you know that your check-in bags even when overweight cannot weigh more then 70lbs; this meant that I had to adjust some luggage at the check-in counter, at-least I didn't have to pay 40 euros a kg. Btw, those scales from AAA to weigh the luggage do not work.